The Calatrava reference 96, first introduced in 1932, is considered the ultimate blueprint for a time-only dress watch by many. Since its inception, the Calatrava has taken on various forms, with some vintage configurations becoming particularly sought after by collectors. The Patek Philippe ref. 5022, produced between 1997 and 2003, continues this tradition by combining the reliability of modern production with the aesthetics of their vintage pieces. The reference was made in yellow gold, rose gold, white gold, and platinum.
The design of the Patek Philippe 5022 leans into the classic aesthetic embodied by Patek Philippe. It features a crisp white dial with printed Breguet numerals, complemented by Breguet style hands that float above the dial. A subsidiary seconds indication sits at 6 o'clock, subtly placed higher up on the dial. The "Patek Philippe Geneve" signature features subtle serif details, further imbuing this piece with a distinctive "neo-vintage" aesthetic.
The white gold case features a stepped bezel and straight lugs, reminiscent of some vintage pieces. The watch feels larger on the wrist than its dimensions would otherwise suggest, and its thickness just under 7mm makes it both comfortable and elegant. The hallmarks on the side of the lugs and caseback are crisp and deep, suggesting that this piece remains in unpolished condition.
Powered by the manual-winding caliber 215 PS, the movement is subtly finished with chamfering on some angles and polishing and decoration in the form of Geneva striping. This movement carries the unique Geneva Seal, which focuses on decorating a movement with finesse and skill in the style of Genevan watchmaking.