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1979 Rolex Explorer II MK 4 Pumpkin Lume (Ref. 1655)

$23,900.00

Worth A Read

History and Significance

The Rolex Explorer II reference 1655 occupies a unique place in Rolex history. Introduced in the early 1970s, it was designed as a practical instrument for spelunkers, cave explorers, and professionals working in environments where distinguishing day from night was essential. Unlike later Explorer II references, the 1655 relies on its fixed 24-hour bezel and oversized orange GMT hand rather than an independently adjustable hour hand, reinforcing its pure tool-watch intent.

This example dates to 1979 and features the Mark IV dial, identifiable by its specific text layout and tritium characteristics consistent with late-production 1655s. The matte black dial paired with aged tritium plots and the iconic orange hand gives the watch its unmistakable character. Often nicknamed the “Freccione” or “Steve McQueen,” the 1655 was never actually worn by McQueen, but the association stuck and helped cement the model’s cult status.

Unpolished examples with original components are increasingly difficult to find. With its original bracelet dated to 1977 and strong overall integrity, this piece represents the Explorer II in one of its most honest and collectible forms.

Writer’s Thoughts

The 1655 wears with a presence that feels purpose-built rather than flashy. The unpolished case retains its original geometry, and the patina across the dial and hands gives the watch real depth. It is a watch for collectors who value originality and history over perfection, and one that feels equally at home as a daily wearer or as a cornerstone vintage Rolex.

Our Promise

Every watch is thoroughly vetted, carefully described with complete transparency, and guaranteed authentic. This watch is offered in honest condition.

Specifications

Brand: Rolex

Model: Explorer II

Reference: ref. 1655

Year: 1979

Case Material: Stainless steel

Case Size: 40mm

Bezel: Fixed stainless steel 24-hour bezel

Dial: Black Mark IV dial with tritium luminous markers

Crystal: Acrylic

Movement: Automatic Rolex caliber 1575 GMT

Strap: Stainless steel Oyster bracelet

Buckle/Clasp: Rolex folding clasp

Contents: Watch only

Condition

Case: Unpolished stainless steel case shows surface wear consistent with age and use. The case remains well proportioned with strong lugs and original lines.

Bezel: Fixed steel bezel shows wear with clearly legible engravings.

Crystal: Acrylic crystal shows surface marks consistent with use, with no cracks.

Dial: Mark IV black dial shows even aging with well-balanced tritium patina and intact printing.

Hands: Original hands present with matching tritium and the correct orange 24-hour hand.

Strap: Original Rolex Oyster bracelet dated 1977 shows light stretch consistent with age.

Buckle/Clasp: Rolex clasp shows light handling marks and functions properly.

1979 Rolex Explorer II MK 4 Pumpkin Lume (Ref. 1655)

$23,900.00

Authenticity Guaranteed

All our watches are carefully inspected to insure and guarantee the authenticity.

The Details

All our watches are scrutinized during inspection to make sure our descriptions are as accurate as possible.

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Worth A Read

History and Significance

The Rolex Explorer II reference 1655 occupies a unique place in Rolex history. Introduced in the early 1970s, it was designed as a practical instrument for spelunkers, cave explorers, and professionals working in environments where distinguishing day from night was essential. Unlike later Explorer II references, the 1655 relies on its fixed 24-hour bezel and oversized orange GMT hand rather than an independently adjustable hour hand, reinforcing its pure tool-watch intent.

This example dates to 1979 and features the Mark IV dial, identifiable by its specific text layout and tritium characteristics consistent with late-production 1655s. The matte black dial paired with aged tritium plots and the iconic orange hand gives the watch its unmistakable character. Often nicknamed the “Freccione” or “Steve McQueen,” the 1655 was never actually worn by McQueen, but the association stuck and helped cement the model’s cult status.

Unpolished examples with original components are increasingly difficult to find. With its original bracelet dated to 1977 and strong overall integrity, this piece represents the Explorer II in one of its most honest and collectible forms.

Writer’s Thoughts

The 1655 wears with a presence that feels purpose-built rather than flashy. The unpolished case retains its original geometry, and the patina across the dial and hands gives the watch real depth. It is a watch for collectors who value originality and history over perfection, and one that feels equally at home as a daily wearer or as a cornerstone vintage Rolex.

Our Promise

Every watch is thoroughly vetted, carefully described with complete transparency, and guaranteed authentic. This watch is offered in honest condition.

Specifications

Brand: Rolex

Model: Explorer II

Reference: ref. 1655

Year: 1979

Case Material: Stainless steel

Case Size: 40mm

Bezel: Fixed stainless steel 24-hour bezel

Dial: Black Mark IV dial with tritium luminous markers

Crystal: Acrylic

Movement: Automatic Rolex caliber 1575 GMT

Strap: Stainless steel Oyster bracelet

Buckle/Clasp: Rolex folding clasp

Contents: Watch only

Condition

Case: Unpolished stainless steel case shows surface wear consistent with age and use. The case remains well proportioned with strong lugs and original lines.

Bezel: Fixed steel bezel shows wear with clearly legible engravings.

Crystal: Acrylic crystal shows surface marks consistent with use, with no cracks.

Dial: Mark IV black dial shows even aging with well-balanced tritium patina and intact printing.

Hands: Original hands present with matching tritium and the correct orange 24-hour hand.

Strap: Original Rolex Oyster bracelet dated 1977 shows light stretch consistent with age.

Buckle/Clasp: Rolex clasp shows light handling marks and functions properly.