1990s Universal Genève Retrograde Jump Hour (Ref. 125.125)
- Worth A Read
- Specifications
- Condition
History and Significance
Universal Genève spent much of the 20th century operating at the intersection of technical experimentation and restrained design. While the brand is best known for chronographs like the Compax and later collaborations, its dress and complication pieces often reveal a quieter but equally ambitious side of the manufacture. Reference 125.125 sits firmly in that lineage, produced during a period when Universal was revisiting unconventional time displays through a modern lens.
This model combines two complications that are rarely seen together in such a clean format: a retrograde minute display and a jumping hour aperture. The minutes sweep across the upper dial on a retrograde track before snapping back to zero at the top of the hour, while the hour advances instantly through a window at twelve. The result is a mechanical choreography that feels deliberate without being theatrical, requiring precise engineering to remain legible and balanced.
Housed in a solid 18k yellow gold rectangular case, the watch reflects late-20th-century reinterpretations of Art Deco proportions. The stepped case architecture, thin bezel, and recessed dial framing keep the design disciplined, allowing the complication layout to take center stage. Universal Genève used this reference to demonstrate that inventive mechanics could still live comfortably within a classic dress watch silhouette.
Writer’s Thoughts
What I enjoy most about this watch is how matter-of-fact it feels despite the complexity. The jumping hour and retrograde minutes are there because they’re interesting mechanically, not because they’re trying to show off. On the wrist, it wears flatter and more naturally than you’d expect, and the gold case gives it just enough presence without turning it into a statement piece. It’s the kind of watch you end up explaining to someone only after they notice it’s doing something different.
Our Promise
Every watch is thoroughly vetted, carefully described with complete transparency, and guaranteed authentic. This watch is offered in honest condition.
Brand: Universal Genève
Model: Retrograde Jump Hour (Ref. 125.125)
Year: 1990s
Case Material: 18k yellow gold
Case Size: Approximately 24 mm x 32 mm
Case: Solid 18k yellow gold rectangular case with stepped profile and smooth bezel
Dial: Silver dial with retrograde minute track and jumping hour aperture
Crystal: Sapphire
Movement: Manual wind Universal Genève movement with retrograde minutes and jumping hours
Strap/Bracelet: Green leather strap
Buckle/Clasp: Original pin buckle
Contents: Watch only
Case: Solid 18k yellow gold case shows light surface wear consistent with careful use. Case lines remain crisp and well defined.
Crystal: Sapphire crystal is clean with no visible chips or cracks.
Dial: The silver dial is well-preserved, with clean printing and evenly aged surfaces. Retrograde track and hour aperture remain sharp.
Hands: Original hands are clean with a consistent finish and no visible corrosion.
Strap/Bracelet: The leather strap is new.
Buckle/Clasp: Gold pin buckle shows light wear and functions properly.
1990s Universal Genève Retrograde Jump Hour (Ref. 125.125)
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The Details
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- Worth A Read
- Specifications
- Condition
History and Significance
Universal Genève spent much of the 20th century operating at the intersection of technical experimentation and restrained design. While the brand is best known for chronographs like the Compax and later collaborations, its dress and complication pieces often reveal a quieter but equally ambitious side of the manufacture. Reference 125.125 sits firmly in that lineage, produced during a period when Universal was revisiting unconventional time displays through a modern lens.
This model combines two complications that are rarely seen together in such a clean format: a retrograde minute display and a jumping hour aperture. The minutes sweep across the upper dial on a retrograde track before snapping back to zero at the top of the hour, while the hour advances instantly through a window at twelve. The result is a mechanical choreography that feels deliberate without being theatrical, requiring precise engineering to remain legible and balanced.
Housed in a solid 18k yellow gold rectangular case, the watch reflects late-20th-century reinterpretations of Art Deco proportions. The stepped case architecture, thin bezel, and recessed dial framing keep the design disciplined, allowing the complication layout to take center stage. Universal Genève used this reference to demonstrate that inventive mechanics could still live comfortably within a classic dress watch silhouette.
Writer’s Thoughts
What I enjoy most about this watch is how matter-of-fact it feels despite the complexity. The jumping hour and retrograde minutes are there because they’re interesting mechanically, not because they’re trying to show off. On the wrist, it wears flatter and more naturally than you’d expect, and the gold case gives it just enough presence without turning it into a statement piece. It’s the kind of watch you end up explaining to someone only after they notice it’s doing something different.
Our Promise
Every watch is thoroughly vetted, carefully described with complete transparency, and guaranteed authentic. This watch is offered in honest condition.
Brand: Universal Genève
Model: Retrograde Jump Hour (Ref. 125.125)
Year: 1990s
Case Material: 18k yellow gold
Case Size: Approximately 24 mm x 32 mm
Case: Solid 18k yellow gold rectangular case with stepped profile and smooth bezel
Dial: Silver dial with retrograde minute track and jumping hour aperture
Crystal: Sapphire
Movement: Manual wind Universal Genève movement with retrograde minutes and jumping hours
Strap/Bracelet: Green leather strap
Buckle/Clasp: Original pin buckle
Contents: Watch only
Case: Solid 18k yellow gold case shows light surface wear consistent with careful use. Case lines remain crisp and well defined.
Crystal: Sapphire crystal is clean with no visible chips or cracks.
Dial: The silver dial is well-preserved, with clean printing and evenly aged surfaces. Retrograde track and hour aperture remain sharp.
Hands: Original hands are clean with a consistent finish and no visible corrosion.
Strap/Bracelet: The leather strap is new.
Buckle/Clasp: Gold pin buckle shows light wear and functions properly.