Blancpain Villeret Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5395 - Rare Gay Freres Bracelet - Unpolished - Box & Papers
- Worth The Read
- Specifications
With Blancpain’s takeover by renowned watchmakers Jean-Claude Biver and Jacques Piguet in 1981, the world’s oldest watch brand dating to 1735 came roaring back to life. Under Biver and Piguet, Blancpain emerged as one of the most sophisticated and technically advanced watchmakers, rivalling the likes of Patek Philippe in movement quality and design. In this era of rebirth, Blancpain produced everything from high complication minute repeaters and perpetual calendars to sport chronographs to ultra-slim time-only dress watches.
As scholarship on Blancpain continues to grow, collectors are taking note of the brand’s historical significance and have begun to place these important timepieces in their collections. This much-deserved attention coupled with the surge of interest in ‘neo-vintage’ collecting has placed Blancpain in the ranks of the most collectible watch brands. Without a doubt here it will remain as one of the most important and collectible watchmakers of the ‘neo-vintage’ era.
We believe that Blancpain continues to offer incredible value to collectors when taking into consideration the very high quality of production of these ‘neo-vintage’ timepieces.
To re-launch the brand, Biver and Piguet produced what is now known as the “six masterpieces,” a collection that began with the triple calendar moonphase and ultra-thin time-only. Then, in 1986, came the Ref. 5395 Perpetual Calendar. The present example, from 1988, is presented in an unpolished 34mm x 9mm thick yellow gold case. The thin, elegant case is likely amongst the best wearing that we have ever encountered in a dress watch, no less a perpetual calendar. As acclaimed watch journalist Tony Traina stated in a 2023 Hodinkee Article about this watch, “With its three subdials and moonphase at 6 o’clock, the dial is beautiful and symmetrical and, to me, puts the watch alongside the ultra thin QPs [perpetual calendars] introduced by the big boys [Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and Vacheron Constantin] around the same time (for a fraction of the price, might I add).” We could not have said it any better, and having handled these other ultra-thin perpetual calendars, some of which exceed six-figures in price, we believe this watch offers a near perfect design and incredible value.
Two things make this particular example special. First, it is in an extraordinary state of preservation. The case is remarkably sharp and without a doubt presents a true unpolished example. The dial is in stunning mint condition without a mark or blemish on it. Second, the watch features the highly coveted and rare Gay Freres 18K gold bracelet. These bracelets were produced by renowned manufacturer Gay Freres for Blancpain and were an option available for purchase on the six masterpieces. The bracelets were prohibitively expensive at the time of retail, and very few can be found on Blancpains from this era. This particular bracelet exhibits no stretch and is in phenomenal condition. Several prominent collectors have commented that the bracelet is a must-have, and we agree that it is one of the best constructed, best wearing bracelets we have ever encountered. This watch presents an incredible opportunity not only to acquire a near perfect design with an exceptional bracelet, but also to obtain amazing value on a timepiece that continues to rise in collecting circles as one of the most important perpetual calendars of the era.
Reference: 5395
Model: Villeret Perpetual Calendar
Movement: Automatic FP Caliber 5395
Year: 1988
Contents: Box, papers, and booklets.
Case: Razor sharp unpolished 34mm 18K yellow gold stepped case. The best condition 5395 we have ever encountered. Weight of 138 grams (nearly 5 ounces).
Dial: Flawless dial condition
Strap & Buckle: Highly coveted 18K yellow gold Gay Freres Villeret bracelet in unpolished condition with no stretch. Bracelet will fit a wrist up to 8 inches.
Blancpain Villeret Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5395 - Rare Gay Freres Bracelet - Unpolished - Box & Papers
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